
We didn´t get our act together in time to find flowers, but our difuntitos will find the most tastey mole de olla, vegetable beef stew with dark, smokey chiles.
Karen and I attended the Witte Game Dinner tonight. It's a big fund raiser for the Witte Museum (where I am a board member until the end of this month). I'm not much of a foodie, but this event is something Karen and I have been doing for many, many years. The biggest Witte fund raiser of the year (and this being the 29th year) features exotic game served up in obscene quantities. Not politically correct but fun nonetheless.
Everything from paella to venison enchiladas. I rarely eat meat these days, but this evening always provides an excuse to try things not on my regular menu. Top of my list was the quail cooked in some kind of basalmic vinegar sauce. It was also served two other ways, but I stuck with this version for two servings. The lamb chops were a close second. Karen always goes straight for the gorditas with hand-made-on-the-spot tortillas and a sizable selection of fresh add-ons; guacamole, sour cream, tomatoes, onions, oregano, cilantro, etc...
The venison enchiladas were actually pretty good, but the bacon-wrapped, jalepeno-stuffed chicken bits were better. It was impossible to get excited about venison "sliders." The wild pig and buffalo were okay, but not great. Mashed potatoes with cheddar was a new offering that tasted pretty good. The fish dishes were suspiciously pungent, so I passed on them this year. I chose the dark beers (Shiner and Negra Modelo) over the crappy white wine.
So from Texas I offer up the worst of all possible worlds.
Chris K
This morning I made corn meal pancakes, which I accomplished by dumping an amount of corn meal into a bowl, and dumping an amount of dried milk on top of that, and then a smaller dump of baking powder, and then a much smaller dump of sugar, and then really just a dusting of salt on top of that. Then some water and finally an egg -- which, being pre-packaged, was the only item that was properly measured out. This method doesn't always work.
On a side note, though, we've been doing some really productive experimentation with grains. We made polenta last night, and paella the night before. They are so easy to do! It was great. Put some combinations of sausage and veggies on top and on the side. And then we had nutella brownies thanks to Clara. Oh god it was so good. Clara said it may have been a bit undercooked but I said Bah!: fondant.
On sunday we took a little overnight trip to Gitega, the smaller city in the center of the country. It was in the hills and therefore cool, which was nice. It is a small city with some really pretty tree-lined boulevards. It also seems to have been the retirement home of a modernist Belgian architect. Or maybe not. But the town had a surprising number (7?) of really interesting buildings with random cantilevered planes and things like this, made during the colonial period and now used to house the regional police, or political party offices, or nothing. French was much less spoken, Swahili much more so, so Clara was much more speaking, me not as much. We do seem to attract anglophone mildly-crazy people, however, which may prove to be an interesting network, or might not. (I'm reading 2666 right now, which has really cultivated my taste for equivocation, for uncertainty, which Bolano uses a lot in his descriptions. Or maybe he's just asserting many certainties.) The first was a guy at the Burundi-Ivory Coast football match on Saturday. He was wearing a dress and the kind of bandana that Aunt Jemima wore, and he was a bit crazy. But he also described MLK as an anti-colonial leader and was the only person in the whole crowd who was willing to go up to the policemen blocking everyone's view and ask them to get out of the way (they didn't). So if he was crazy, he was also wise and ballsy. The second was a guy in Gitega who was very friendly -- in fact, he introduced himself as "Mister Nice" -- and would have escorted us around the neighborhood but he had to go prepare for his Koran lesson. We're divided on whether he was crazy, actually.
B
Meanwhile I've been flying through a really neat little memoir called "My Stroke of Insight". A rising-star neuroscientist experienced an early-life stroke that incapacitated her left hemisphere, depriving her of various functions located there such as language, linear thought, the capacity for proprioception (knowing where your body ends) and other rational thinking skills. Amazingly, she recovered fully. The book explains what it was like to lose those functions and why she never really wants to go back to the way that she was before. It turns out that the left hemisphere creates our ego-centered consciousness, and that when the right hemisphere is permitted to have its way we are able to access an innate capacity for holistic and compassionate consciousness. Her description of the way that she lives her life now -- in order to preserve the capacities she gained/revealed during her stroke -- echoes almost exactly many of the prescriptions provided by Tara Brach and Thich Naht Han (the only Buddhist writers I've read, I'm sure there are other better examples) for mindful living. However she comes at it from a purely scientific, physiological angle. It's really fascinating.
Otherwise, Clara and I have both settled into work. She finished her outline for a month-long workshop on documentary filmmaking. I'm reading up on all the secondary literature about land conflict and the judiciary in Burundi. Of which, it turns out, there is plenty! In the evenings we have done some cool stuff. We saw a really good concert on Friday of this singer Stephen Sogo. Great fusion of traditional tunes and afrobeat. Earlier in the evening we were pulled away from our work by a ton of drumming noise coming from across the street. We checked in out and down at the far end of the soccer fields a drum and dance troupe was practicing. It was completely awesome. They were doing some crazy moves that Matt (Clara's brother) should not be made aware of, lest he get inspired -- there's a real risk of broken furniture, limbs, pride.
B